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Roman had sold a TV show to Hulu, though she mentioned production had been stalled by COVID. She was collaborating with a cookware firm on a limited-edition line of vintage-inspired spoons. Embedded in Roman’s recipes, there’s a lot of anxiousness about cash, class, success, travel, and real estate, and about staying true to some primal early-adult identity as she has gained access to those things. For all her renegade angle, she is strongly concerned with perception. This fall, Roman was capturing a Thanksgiving particular for her YouTube collection, “Home Movies,” which she launched in January. The series is shot in a vérité fashion, with free-flowing banter from the sidelines, overlaid in manufacturing with cutaways and meme-friendly graphics.
In the development section, Roman had created a temper board; it referenced “High Maintenance” and “Broad City” quite than cooking reveals. She wanted the videos to feel “extra lived-in, extra real,” her persona less sanitized than “the really wholesome version” of herself in the movies she’d created for other retailers. Roman writes in the preface to “Nothing Fancy” that she has “all the time been allergic to the phrase ‘entertaining.’ ” Yet instructing her audience how to entertain—even if she calls it “having individuals over”—is a large part of what she does. The distinction seems to be about the appearance of caring overly much. In Roman’s world, an admission of effort have to be offset by an ungiven fuck. “Roasting a pleasant hen for individuals is such a nice way to say, ‘I love you,’ ” she writes.
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At the time, Bon Appétit was led by Adam Rapoport, a former style editor. In 4 years, she went from recipe tester to senior food editor, evolving from wide-eyed transplant (“My job does not suck,” she marvels, in an early video) to cultural arbiter (“Every Dinner Party Needs a Pre-Game”). It’s onerous, even for Roman, to place a concise label on what she does. She’s at all times a prepare dinner, typically a author, often a performer, and by no means a pushover, even when she’s getting in her own way. “In a world the place everyone feels the have to be excessively polite, she’s excessively herself,” David Cho, a business adviser who consults on her projects, told me. Roman made her identify as a meals columnist and the host of cooking movies for Bon Appétit and the Times.
